Bishop’s Gate Hotel: A Luxury Boutique in Derry, Northern Ireland

Often overlooked by visitors who flock to its larger counterparts, such as Dublin, Cork, and Limerick to the south or Belfast to the east, Derry, the second-largest city in Northern Ireland, has emerged as a world-class tourist destination. Much of its recent popularity is thanks to the popular TV series “Derry Girls,” which follows the daily escapades of five teenagers during the country’s political conflict in the 1990s. And while it was a dangerous center during The Troubles, these days Derry is a friendly city, full of history, culture, architectural heritage, and a welcoming atmosphere. And for those who visit, one of the best places to stay is the historic Bishop’s Gate Hotel.

A City Once Divided

Before visiting, it’s important to understand that Derry is a city steeped in conflict and resilience. Located on the northeastern tip of the island of Ireland, Northern Ireland covers only about 5,000 square miles — about one-sixth of the island and an area about the size of South Carolina.

Following the partition of the island in the 1920s, Northern Ireland accepted self-governance within the United Kingdom. The Unionist majority in Northern Ireland, most of whom were Protestant sought this governance, while Irish nationalists, the majority of whom were Catholics, wanted independence. This led to tension and violence between the two groups. And by the late 1960s, the conflict had exploded into what is now referred to as The Troubles.

Derry was an epicenter for that “war.” Even its name is a source of dispute. For the Nationalists, it’s simply Derry. But for the Unionists — and officially — it’s Londonderry. As a result, to this day, you will still see street signs with both names.

One of Derry’s unique features is its city walls. Derry is the only completely intact walled city in Ireland and one of the finest examples of walled cities in Europe. Built in the early 1600s as defenses against England and Scotland, the thick stone walls form a walkway around the old city. And they vary in width between 12 and 35 feet. As such, visitors can walk along the top of the walls and marvel at views of the River Foyle and its symbolic Peace Bridge, the Bogside neighborhood, and the hills of the Inishowinich peninsula. UNESCO has listed the walls as one of the world’s 1001 historic sites.

Access to the interior of the city is by one of four original gates: Shipquay, Butcher, Ferryquay, and Bishop’s Gate — from which the hotel takes its name.

A Historic Stay at Bishop’s Gate Hotel

The building that houses the Bishop’s Gate Hotel was built in 1899. It originally served as a gentleman’s club and hosted such renowned guests as Winston Churchill and WB Yeats. Located in the heart of the city’s Cathedral Quarter, it’s just minutes the River Foyle to the east, the Bogside neighborhood with its Bloody Sunday monument and famed murals to the northwest, and the ancient walls that surround the historic city of Derry.

Bishop’s Gate opened in 2016. Tastefully restored in shades of gray, sage green and white, the building maintains its Edwardian features. The first thing guests notice upon arrival is the grand staircase that winds up to the second floor. Its ornate banister is complemented by eye-catching stained-glass windows and a massive chandelier. A wall of framed portraits at first appears formal, but then you realize that the subjects are dogs. More modern artwork is found throughout the property, contrasting with the antique furniture and traditional architectural elements.

Since its opening, Bishop’s Gate has won numerous awards. In 2022, it was crowned the best hotel in Northern Ireland at Tourism NI’s Giant Spirit Awards. Another property on the shortlist for the honor was Killeavy Castle Estate. And earlier this year, it was named one of the Best of the Best Hotels in the UK by Trip Advisor. Not surprisingly, it was noted for its “impeccable decor,” “fabulous food,” and “attentive staff.”

Rooms and Dining Options

Bishop’s Gate offers 31 guest rooms, including nine boutique apartments in an adjacent 19th-century townhouse. Room sizes range from Deluxe, which is available with king, queen, or twin beds; to the slightly larger Luxury with a king-size bed; to the 300-square-foot Junior Suite and the almost 700-square-foot Penthouse Suite. I stayed in a Deluxe room with a king bed.

The rooms are elegantly designed, with a soothing palette of classic taupes and blues. Small touches, such as antique phones and coffered ceilings, reflect the historic nature of the property. But rooms also have all the modern-day amenities, including coffee makers, hair dryers, complimentary Wi-Fi, and wall-mount smart TVs.

The white-tiled bathrooms are spacious, with contemporary fixtures and a large shower. Unfortunately, the wall-mount sink is small, with limited space to store toothbrushes or toiletries. But there is a narrow shelf that runs the entire length of the wall. And guests also are provided with travel-size toiletries by Amsterdam-based Rituals Cosmetics.

The hotel has two dining options: the casual Wig Champagne Bar and the upscale Gown Restaurant. The Wig is open for lunch and dinner daily, and seating is on a first-come, first-serve basis. And the menu features a selection of pub-friendly dishes, such as burgers, flatbreads, and fish and chips.

The Gown is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and reservations are highly recommended for evening service. The dinner menu offers a choice of a two- or three-course meal consisting of fine-dining classics, such as steak, lamb, and seafood. In 2023, the Gown was named one of the best hotel restaurants in Ireland by the Irish Restaurant Awards.

Exploring Derry

Derry is an immensely walkable city. The walled center is compact and chock-full of bars, restaurants, and shops. For that reason, I recommend starting with a walking tour with Derry City Tours. You’ll learn the history of the city, visit some of its famous buildings, and even hit up some fun spots, such as the beloved “Derry Girls” mural.

The neo-gothic Guildhall is a city landmark. The red brick cathedral-like structure with its clock tower modeled after Big Ben towers over the city. Inside is an array of stunning stained-glass windows and a massive pipe organ with more than 3,100 pipes.

For a sobering reminder of the city’s history, head down the hill to the Bogside neighborhood. Here, near the roundabout that holds the famed “You Are Now Entering Free Derry” sign is a collection of murals that commemorate the events of Jan. 30, 1972. On this day, known as “Bloody Sunday,” British soldiers shot 26 unarmed civilians, killing 14, during a protest march. It became a significant event of The Troubles and fueled hostility between the two groups.

After a day of exploring, walk across the Peace Bridge to Stitch + Weave. The restaurant opened in early 2024 near Ebrington Square overlooking the river. The menu showcases locally sourced ingredients, while the dining room offers panoramic views of River Foyle and the walled city. Dishes range from steaks and seafood to cauliflower steaks, salt and chili chicken and beef bourguignon. I had the Spanish sausage pappardelle, which came with two whole sausages atop a pile of creamy pasta. But make sure to leave room for dessert, as the restaurant is known for its sweet temptations.

Staying at the Bishop’s Gate Hotel

Rooms at Bishop’s Gate start at about $220/night. In addition, the hotel also offers a number of accommodation packages, including foodie stays, sport and activity stays, and entertainment packages. You can compare rates and make a reservation at Booking.com as well. While the hotel is wheelchair-accessible, the elevators are tucked behind a number of doors — it was a challenge to even find them— and only two rooms offer accessible features such as grab bars. Pets are not allowed.

All photos by Rebecca L. Rhoades